- The next step and a very important one is to gather all your materials in one area. Plan what you are making and make sure you have everything you need at hand. There is nothing worse than having to run and get more wicks when your wax has already melted and is cooling down! It is similar to cooking - we will be following a recipe and should have all our ingredients ready. And remember you should never leave wax on your stove unattended.- I tend to cover my work surface with parchment paper. It keeps my counter tops free of wax and if I spill all I need do is wait for the wax to cool then peel it off and use it again. I've tried wax paper, but I find it too thin and the wax on the paper melts when it comes in contact with hot wax!.
- Melt your wax in a double boiler. When first starting out I recommend using the preblended IGI 4625 or 1274 (Mottled Wax). This way you don't have to worry about additives. - In this picture I am using a dutch oven pot as the base. I got this at a dollar store. Don't use your good pots and pans as they tend to get rather messy - sometimes collecting wax which may have dripped down the side of your pot when you put it back in for re-melting.) - Here I am using a melting pot which is capable of holding 4 pounds of wax (I seldom put more than 3 pounds in and often use a smaller pot for pouring when making votives - I find it easier to handle). We sell both the 4lb and the 1lb here.- The reason we melt our wax in a double boiler is so we can control the temperature the wax reaches. Boiling water never can exceed 212F, whereas if you put the melting pot directly on a stove burner, you can reach much higher temperatures and potentially reach your flash points (the point at which your wax could spontaneously combust). Most wax melts between 130F and 180F. An optimal pour temperature for votives is 175-180F.- You will find that the water in your double boiler won't actually boil until the wax is nearly melted. Be careful not to let the larger pot boil dry. And if you have left over water - do not pour it down the sink! Any wax that is left in the pot may clog your drain when it cools. Never pour excess wax down the drain - it may look like liquid now but when it melts your drains will have a thick coating which could be very costly to remove!- Place a metal ring under your melting pot so it is not in direct contact with the base of the larger pot.
- While your wax is melting, get your molds ready. Our pillar molds have a pre-drilled hole in them at the closed end. This concave end is actually the top of the candle and the exposed portion will be the bottom. - Thread the wick through hole. Secure with wick screw or mold plug.
- Turn mold over and pull wick taut and secure with bamboo skewer or wick bar. You will want the wick as tight as possible to prevent it from moving when the wax is hardening. It can be pulled off centre which will inhibit the burning of your candle.- Make sure wick is centered over hole. - However, if you wait too long, you may not get your wick deep enough to have an effective burn later. - Wax will cool from the outside in. Your candle may look finished on the outside, but may have a very hot and melted centre! I make the mistake once of pushing too hard on the top of a pillar still in its mold. My finger when through the wax and the hot melted wax inside spurted up and all over me! - Keep an eye on your candles as you may need to recenter the wick as the wax cools. Let it cool about 45 minutes.
- If using a wick pin instead of tying off your wick, follow the next few steps.- Place some Mold Sealant on the base of the wick pin. (These pins come in 2" or 3" sizes)
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