Gather all your ingredients - you do not want to be looking for something in the middle of the process.  Make sure you are using an accurate scale as all ingredients are measured out and must be precise to ensure positive results.

 

 

Measure your lye into a container using a scale. The more accurate the scale the more successful your soap will be. Be careful not to splash the lye about - sometimes when using plastic you will get static which will cause the lye beads to bounce - this is why I prefer glass containers.

 

Water is the only ingredient where you do not need to be 100% accurate.  Many people will discount the water (eg. reduce the amount of recommended water) so that the bars will dry faster.  Note: this does not mean the bars will neutralize faster. Water weighs the same as volume (eg. 16oz of water by weight is the same as 16oz fluid ounces in a measuring cup).

 

Slowly add the lye INTO the water - not the other way around.  Remember: Lye INTO the water.  This allows the lye to react slowly - if you add the water to the lye - all the lye will react at once. Make sure the water is COLD.  If it is warm you can get a volcano reaction - not good.

 

Tip: Use distilled water if possible or bottled spring water - avoid tap water were additions of chemicals can make the water smell (a bit like a swimming pool!)  You can usually buy distilled water at the grocery store.

 

Glass bowls are easier to clean up (oils can be so messy).

 

The heat from the chemical reaction of the lye and water will increase the mixture to almost 200F - the vapours can be intense - this is why you should be wearing a mask.  Put this bowl aside somewhere safe so it won't get spilled - keep it away from any pets or children (they can be so curious!)

 

Let this cool to about 150F  - while it's cooling start heating your oils and get the rest of your ingredients ready.

 

All your oils should be weighed. Do not measure by volume.  Liquids and solids are weighed.  Depending on the size of batch you are making you may be able to mix all your oils together in one bowl. When doing larger batches heat/melt each individual oil and transfer to a larger container.

 

The types of oils you use can vary immensely - however, the mainstay of most soaps is Olive Oil, Coconut Oil and Palm Oil. In our basic recipe we also use cocoa butter and shea butter.

 

Note some oils in a recipe may be added at "trace" (which is described below).

 

Superfatting - the general concept of soapmaking is to turn all the fat (your oils) into soap.  To do this we need an exact amount of lye to an exact amount of oil.  However, many people wish to superfat their soap - which means to leave some of the fat as just that.  For example you may wish to leave 5% of your oils as oil.  This would result in a soap bar which has a more luxurious feel and can leave some of the oil on your skin creating a more moisturizing bar. We do not recommend superfatting more than 10%.  The reason being is that oils can go rancid after 3-6 months (depending on the oil used).  If a bar has too much "oil" it could go "off" quickly.  You do not know how long your vendors or customers will have this bar of soap on the shelf before they use it. 

 

The general way of superfatting is to use less lye than required to turn all of your oils to soap - or - use the correct amount and then later add some extra oil (usually at the trace stage).

 

You can heat it either in the microwave or on the stove - but remember to heat slowly to avoid overheating and maybe causing an oil fire. We usually start out with 3 minutes in the microwave, stir it and if needed heat in 30 second increments until it is the right temperature.

 

Heat your oils to about 150F - mix gently. If you are going to add your lye/water directly to this bowl, make sure there is enough room. If in doubt transfer to a larger bowl.

 

 

Slowly mix the lye/water mixture into your oil - you can stir using a wooden spoon - but if you have a life and want to get on with it - use an electric stick blender (you can get these at department stores these days for about $10.)  Using a wooden spoon can take up to half an hour - using a stick blender will take you 5 minutes!

 

Move the stick blender around to make sure all the oils and lye/water are blended.  You are trying to reach "trace" - this is how you tell - lift your blender out of the mixture - drops off the blender that land on the mixture should take several seconds before they blend with the mixture in the bowl. If you are not there yet - mix another 30 seconds and test again...repeat if necessary.

 

If you are going to do Step 4 - only take your soap to the lightest trace as you will need time to blend in your colours.  If you want a "fudge" top on your soap - take your soap to a very heavy trace

 

If you prefer a non-coloured and non-scented soap bar and are not putting any other additives in your soap - go to the next step.

 

While your lye is cooling and your oils heating take the time to gather all your extras (fragrance, colour, and botanicals).

 

Add in your fragrances and be sure to mix with your electric stick blender to make sure that the fragrance or essential oil is getting thoroughly blended. 

 

Tip:  If you are using a new fragrance you may find it is not compatible with your soap.  If  your soap starts to thicken quickly try and mix as quickly as possible and get it into the molds. If your soap "rices" - that is the soap forms little blankets around the drops of fragrance keep mixing and put in molds as soon as possible.  The next day when the soap is ready you may have to "re-batch" your soap so that you can blend the fragrance evenly throughout the soap.

 

If using oxides - mix them with a bit of water and then a small amount of soap to create a coloured paste - then blend this into the remainder of the soap - work quickly as your soap will be thickening even when not mixing it.

 

If doing a "swirl" in your soap - pour off about 1/3 of your soap mixture into another container.  Add the colorant to this smaller amount. 

 

You have a few choices now.  You can pour your uncolored soap into the mold and then pour in the coloured soap on top and use a spoon to mix.  I prefer to pour the colour soap back into my main bowl - give it a brief stir (maybe two rounds with a spoon) and then pour it all into the mold.  It will blend in unusal patterns.

 

Wood molds are the most often used for cold process - their straight edges give your soap a professional look.  All molds should be lined with wax, parchment or butcher's paper, otherwise the soap will stick to the sides of the mold.  The wood mold is also a great insulator.  Cover your soap mold with an old blanket to further help keep the heat in and slow down the cooling process.

 

Pour your soap in (if it has thickened too much - spoon it into the mold and be sure to push the soap into all the corners and try to reduce air pockets).  A cover of saran wrap can help reduce "ash" that can form on top of the soap. 

 

Try not to peek at your soap while in this stage - but if you do - you most likely will see the soap in the "gel" phase - it will look almost transparent. In this picture I created a dam with a piece of cardboard so I could make two flavours at a time.

 

Remove the blankets and lift the lid.  The soap should be a creamy colour throughout - if it is still warm or "gel" lookiing in the middle - let it cool some more.  Use a paint scraper to loosen the two ends.

 

The soap will be soft when you take it out of the mold - this is a great time to cut the soap. Use a knife to even out the top layer of the soap.  If you want to try and make the bars even in size - use a mitre box to slide the soap along and use the guides for your knife.

 

Here we are using our Wired Soap Cutter to cut even sized bars.

 

Soap stamps can add a personalized look to your soap - be sure to stamp the soap in the first few days of curing.

 

Here we are using our Wired Soap Cutter to cut even sized bars.  We use a cheese slicer to bevel our edges.

 

 

Place the bars on their ends and put in an area where they will get good air circulation. Rotate them ocassionally so that all ends get some exposure to the air.  Most bars are not ready to be used within the first 21 days - letting them dry longer will let the water evaporate even more and will make for a harder bar.

 

Testing your ph level of your soap is always a good idea. 

 

According to Canadian standards all ingredients must be listed on your product.

 - List the largest quantity ingredient down to the smallest

 - Use INCI format for the ingredients

 - For fragrance it is enough to say "Fragrance" (the ingredients are too many to list and they are not available anyway as they are considered secret formulas)

 - If using Essential oils - you should say which ones (unless it is your secret formula)